Toproping by Bob Gaines

Author:Bob Gaines
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: FALCONGUIDES
Published: 2020-08-05T00:00:00+00:00

Stacked Xs. In this three-piece anchor, redundancy has been achieved by tying two extension-limiting knots on the purple sling.

Stacked Xs. By tying two overhand knots on both the red and yellow double-length nylon slings, this three-piece anchor has redundancy and minimal extension throughout the system.

This toprope anchor is self-equalizing but lacks redundancy in three critical elements: in the single, rewoven 1-inch tubular nylon sling; the single yellow cordelette; and the single locking carabiner that connects them. While plenty strong, the issue here is not one of strength but of redundancy. Lack of redundancy is a problem for unmonitored toprope anchors like this one, particularly if it’s being heavily used, since the soft nylon cordellete will get abraded over the edge and no one will see it happening. Also, if one of the three pieces were to fail, you’d get some major movement in the red sling, resulting in shock loading the two remaining pieces.

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